2017 The Dead Arm Shiraz, d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale, 1,5 l.

D'Arenbergs "døde arm", der hentyder til meget gamle, virusbefængte vinstokke med visne grene, er år efter år et af pejlemærkerne for australsk Shiraz. Denne 2017'er, der endnu er så uforskammet ung, skal også nok blive det. Taget på babysengen er den blød, raffineret og ret mild i betragtning af sin ungdom - det er en tæt mundfuld proppet med talent, liv og muligheder. Den har en ødsel smag af solbær, brombær og engelsk lakrids og en lang, delikat finish og eftersmag. Den åbner sig uvilligt og først efter mange timer og kan drikkes nu, men det er synd! Gem den roligt 5-10 år.

A very dry but mild growing season with many cool nights has produced a lifted Shiraz of good intensity and detail. Bright blackberry fruit is riven with red licorice and fennel seed spice plus dried rose top notes. Plentiful but fine minerally, earthy tannins lend structure and length. For now, wearing its alcohol very well û highly promising.

This is a very composed and nicely layered rendition of this top-end shiraz with aromas of cocoa, dark plums, blackberries, cinnamon, licorice and dark cherries. The palate has a very impressive build of ripe dark-fruit and chocolate flavors. Layered and expansive, it swells impressively through the finish. Smoothly resolved and gently spicy. Drink or hold.

Locked up tight and ungiving on the nose, d'Arenberg's 2017 The Dead Arm Shiraz is nonetheless formidably dense and concentrated on the palate. Notes of charred wood join plums, raspberries and black olives in this full-bodied effort. With its current surly disposition, it appears to require decanting or several years' sleep in a cool cellar. Giving it air helped bring out purple raspberries and softened the considerable tannins, so I'm optimistic about its future evolution.

The 2017 d'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz deftly combines elements from both the Old and New Worlds. TASTING NOTES: This wine is generous in black fruit, savory spices, leather, and oak. Enjoy it with slow-braised meat dishes.

Chester OsbornÆs collection of old-vine shiraz parcels includes a lot of plants that have lost a limb to Eutypa, a vine disease; they now concentrate their efforts on the fruit growing on the remaining arms. This 2017 shows that concentration in a wine that radiates sun from its blue-black fruit contrasted with earthiness in its rooty, radish-like tannins.

The relatively cool hand of the 2017 vintage has added touches of freshness and elegance to many classically rich, powerful wines like this one. Postcard McLaren Vale notes of plums, blackberries, peppery, earthy spices and a little well-placed oak lead the way. The distinction is in the palate, where muscular, highly textural, rustic tannins are balanced by bright, juicy fruit. Not for fans of cushy, soft-around-the-middle Shiraz, but tannin-craving red lovers will find much enjoyment.

For 15 år siden var jeg stærkt fascineret af denne vin lavet på druer fra halvdøde vinstokke (kun den ene halvdel af planten lever). Den bekræftede mig i, at australsk shiraz kunne et eller andet. De voluminøse, sødtunge shiraz-vine står ikke længere øverst på min ønskeliste. Derfor var jeg spændt på at gensmage "den døde arm". Og jeg blev glædeligt overrasket allerede ved første snif: Tydelige brombær og boysenbær, tørre solbærblade og eukalyptus. En ret spicy næse med et strejf af salt mineralitet. Voldsomt krydret i munden. Mørke bær, espresso og let bitre toner af frugtskal. Kølig og chiliprikkende, sødmen behersket og stadig meget ung. Jeg forventer, det bliver en stor vin.